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DeerPark Locksmith Pros
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Detached satin-nickel lever hardware, tubular latch and strike plate on a wooden workbench. — Lock Replacement & Upgrade, Toronto
Two detached brass lock cylinders and four house keys on a wooden counter. — Lock Rekeying, Toronto

Change or rekey · Toronto

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

Someone tried the back door while you were away.

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In plain words

After a break-in or an attempt, the door tells a story, and the new hardware should answer it. Splintered wood around the strike means the jamb gave before the lock did, so the repair pairs a heavier deadbolt with a reinforced strike and 75 millimetre screws that reach the framing behind the jamb. A bent bolt or cracked housing is replaced with a graded deadbolt whose bolt has a hardened core. A knob lock that was bumped or forced is swapped for a set with better pins. The aim is a whole opening that resists force, not merely a shinier lock.

Sound familiar?

The house is fifteen years old and every exterior door still wears the light hardware the builder fitted: a short bolt, a thin strike held by two small screws, and a knob lock that never suited a street entrance.

How the visit goes

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

How the visit goes

Technician in a cap and clear glasses holding a yellow impact driver at the latch edge of a black door.
Hands fitting a dark metal door knob onto a white door with a screwdriver, a tool belt at the waist.
  1. Measuring the existing preparation

    Before any product is chosen the door is measured. Backset first, the distance from the door edge to the centre of the bore, which on most doors here is 60 or 70 millimetres. Then the cross-bore diameter, the edge-bore size, the shape of the latch faceplate, the door thickness and the handing. The strike cut-out and any glass, trim or storm door that limits where hardware can sit are noted too. These few numbers decide which locks will drop straight into the door and which would need a filler plate, an extension kit or fresh drilling, so they are written down before the catalogue is opened.

  2. Taking the old hardware off without harm

    Removal is done with the same care as fitting. Interior trim screws come out first, then the interior rose or thumb-turn, and the exterior housing lifts away with its tailpiece. The latch or bolt slides out of the edge bore once its two faceplate screws are released, and the old strike comes off the jamb. Painted-over screws are scored free rather than forced, seized screws are eased with a hand driver of the right size, and a stripped head is drilled out only as a last step. The bore and edge mortise are then cleaned of paint build-up and debris so the new parts seat properly.

  3. The rental paperwork, quietly sorted

    If the door belongs to a rental unit, the visit finishes with the keys in the right hands. When a landlord orders the change, giving the tenant a full set of new keys is standard practice. When a tenant orders it with the landlord's consent, a key for the landlord is cut alongside the household's and the consent is noted. The locksmith can leave a short written record of the hardware fitted and the keys issued for the property file, so both sides know what is on the door and nobody is surprised at the next inspection or move-out.

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

In the van

  • Filler plates and thick-door extension kits

  • 75 millimetre strike and hinge screws

  • Handleset with matching deadbolt

  • Boring jig and hole saws

  • Knob or lever entry set

Technician kneeling with a yellow cordless drill at the latch plate of a black door, a tool bag on the porch.

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

What affects the quote

  1. Strike reinforcement and jamb repair

    A reinforced strike with long screws is a modest addition; repairing a jamb split from a forced entry, or fitting a strike box into a frame that has never had one, adds labour and materials.

  2. Finish and style

    Standard satin nickel or brass is one line; specialty finishes, matched suites across several doors and designer handlesets are others. The finish you choose for exposure and looks is priced as the maker prices it.

  3. Keying alike and rekeying

    Pinning new cylinders to one key and repinning existing locks to match is work per cylinder, so a whole house on a single key is quoted by the number of locks joining it.

What to have ready

  • How many keys does the household need, and should copying be restricted?
  • Has the door been forced or damaged, or does it need a push to lock?
  • Can you photograph each lock from outside, inside and along the door edge?
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Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions

Questions
Can you match the new lock to my other door hardware?

Yes. Manufacturers make deadbolts, handlesets, knobs and levers in matching finishes and styles, so a replacement deadbolt can sit above your existing handle without looking like an afterthought. Bring or photograph the hardware you want to match, including the interior side, and note whether it is a warm brass, a satin nickel, an oil-rubbed bronze or a matte black. Where an exact match is not made, the locksmith suggests the closest family.

Can every door in the house work from one key?

Yes, provided the cylinders share a compatible keyway, which the locksmith checks when choosing hardware. New cylinders are pinned on site to a single new key and any existing locks worth keeping are repinned to match. Front, back, side and garage doors commonly end up on one key, and a shed or gate padlock can join them. You then decide how many copies exist and who holds each.

Can I replace only the deadbolt and keep my existing knob?

Yes. The deadbolt and the knob or lever are separate locks in separate bores, so one can be replaced while the other stays. The new deadbolt can be pinned to work on the same key as the knob if the keyways are compatible, and its finish can be matched to the knob so the door looks intended. Replacing the deadbolt first is a sensible order, since it does most of the securing.

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