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DeerPark Locksmith Pros
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Detached satin-nickel lever hardware, tubular latch and strike plate on a wooden workbench. — Lock Replacement & Upgrade, Forest Hill
Two detached brass lock cylinders and four house keys on a wooden counter. — Lock Rekeying, Forest Hill

Change or rekey · Forest Hill

Lock Replacement & Upgrade in Forest Hill

Someone tried the back door while you were away.

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In plain words

Moving into a home is the classic moment for this service, because you inherit whatever hardware and whatever key copies the previous owners left behind. The locksmith walks every exterior door with you and sorts the locks into three piles: sound hardware worth keeping and rekeying, worn hardware worth replacing, and doors with no deadbolt at all. Everything that stays is pinned to one new key, new locks are keyed to match, and old copies floating around town stop mattering. You leave the visit knowing exactly which key opens which door and how many of them exist.

Sound familiar?

Someone tried the back door while you were away. The jamb is splintered around the strike, the bolt is bent, and the knob turns with a grinding feel. Everything held, barely, and you want hardware that would do better next time.

How the visit goes

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

How the visit goes

Technician in a cap and clear glasses holding a yellow impact driver at the latch edge of a black door. — Forest Hill
Hands fitting a dark metal door knob onto a white door with a screwdriver, a tool belt at the waist. — Forest Hill
  1. The rest of the openings

    One failing lock is often the loudest of several, so the locksmith takes a short tour. The back door, the garage man-door, a basement walkout, a sliding patio door and a storm door all count, and so does the door from the garage into the house, which is often the lightest lock on the property. Each is noted for grade, condition and whether it has a deadbolt at all. You are not obliged to do them all at once; the value of the tour is a clear list ranked by what matters most, so the first replacement goes where it makes the largest difference.

  2. Setting and reinforcing the strike

    The strike side is where a replacement earns most of its value. With the door closed, the bolt is thrown and its mark checked against the pocket so the strike can be positioned to accept the full throw without rubbing. A shallow pocket is deepened until the bolt seats to its stop. Then a reinforced strike or a strike box is fitted using 75 millimetre screws that pass through the jamb and bite into the framing behind it, which is what stops a jamb splitting under a kick. Where an old forced entry has cracked the wood, it is glued and dowelled or a repair plate is fitted first.

  3. Every lock tried the way you will use it

    Before the tools go back in the van, each lock is operated from both sides with the door open, then closed, then closed hard against the weatherstrip. The latch should catch on its own when the door swings shut, the deadbolt should throw to its stop with a fingertip on the thumb-turn and no shoulder on the door, and the key should turn without lifting or jiggling. You are invited to try each one yourself and to lock up behind the locksmith. Anything that felt marginal has been adjusted, so the door you close that night behaves the same as the one you tested.

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

In the van

  • Filler plates and thick-door extension kits

  • 75 millimetre strike and hinge screws

  • Handleset with matching deadbolt

  • Boring jig and hole saws

  • Knob or lever entry set

Technician kneeling with a yellow cordless drill at the latch plate of a black door, a tool bag on the porch. — Forest Hill

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

What affects the quote

  1. Smart lock setup

    Fitting a keypad or smart deadbolt includes programming codes, pairing to a phone or hub and calibrating the bolt, which is time on top of the mechanical installation and is named in the quote.

  2. Condition of the old hardware

    Hardware that comes off cleanly is one thing; painted-over trim, seized or stripped screws and a cylinder that has to be drilled out add time before the new lock can go on.

  3. Changes to the door preparation

    Adjusting a strike mortise is minor; boring a new hole for a deadbolt, fitting a filler plate over an old mortise pocket or adapting a thick door with extension kits is quoted as its own item.

What to have ready

  • Which finish should the new hardware match?
  • Are you interested in a keypad or smart lock on any door?
  • Is there a sliding patio door or French door to include?
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Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions

Questions
Can you match the new lock to my other door hardware?

Yes. Manufacturers make deadbolts, handlesets, knobs and levers in matching finishes and styles, so a replacement deadbolt can sit above your existing handle without looking like an afterthought. Bring or photograph the hardware you want to match, including the interior side, and note whether it is a warm brass, a satin nickel, an oil-rubbed bronze or a matte black. Where an exact match is not made, the locksmith suggests the closest family.

Can every door in the house work from one key?

Yes, provided the cylinders share a compatible keyway, which the locksmith checks when choosing hardware. New cylinders are pinned on site to a single new key and any existing locks worth keeping are repinned to match. Front, back, side and garage doors commonly end up on one key, and a shed or gate padlock can join them. You then decide how many copies exist and who holds each.

Can I replace only the deadbolt and keep my existing knob?

Yes. The deadbolt and the knob or lever are separate locks in separate bores, so one can be replaced while the other stays. The new deadbolt can be pinned to work on the same key as the knob if the keyways are compatible, and its finish can be matched to the knob so the door looks intended. Replacing the deadbolt first is a sensible order, since it does most of the securing.

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